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Problem with a powered subwoofer, please help?
I have a powered subwoofer hooked up to my home theater system. It plays fine during movies, but when there is no sound or Powered Subwoofer I have muted the volume there is an intermittent pulse of bass that comes from the speaker once every 5 to 7 minutes. It only last for a second. It happens even if there is no input plugged into the speaker and the speaker is just plugged into the wall. Also there is a noise once power has been turn off on the speaker? Any answers????
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The short answer is maybe…if your a/v receiver has a sub-woofer out, it probably has a level control for the sub that should be adjustable from the remote. However, don’t expect a lot of difference as you adjust the settings. Two possible solutions: 1. see if your MP3 player has a level match so the output does not have such dramatic volume differences and 2. there are subs out there with volume controls being sold.
everyone is correct typically a powered sub is not the quality of seperates, but they do fill in the low end nicely. they are not very powerful, but if using a head unit to power the main speakers it may be just the right thing for you. If you go this way here is a good choice. http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=3368if you go with seperates, you will get more boom for the buck, but if you are not a bass head it may be too much for the volume level of deck anyway. see powered subs are weak, but thats by design, there intent typically is to fill in the low end of a system, not to be part of a complete new install.If you want to go with seperates, here is my recomendation (600watts RMS @ 335 bucks):sub – http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1519Amp – http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=4878install kit – http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK8keep in mind this set up takes up alot of space. but you could shop around for some “better fits”
MOST OF THE TIME YOU GO BY THE MODEL# IF IT IS A TS-W35 IT MIGHT ONLY BE 35 WATTS.
Just split the RCA with a Y audio splitter. It shouldn’t affect quality.
A powered sub uses RCA cables at line level from the subwoofer output on your stereo. To use a passive sub, you would run your speaker cables to the passive sub. A passive sub has inputs for speaker cables coming from your stereo and a crossover output that feeds the sound out to your other speakers with the bass filtered out.
how can you not have enough room for an amp and a box then say you want a powered sub which is just that it depends on your budget but walmart has a 8 in suband amp package for about 80$try crutchfeild.com orsonicelecronix.comyoull prolly be better off buying them seperate and just screwing the amp to the sub enclosuregood luck
You will want to use an RCA splitter, not a switch box. A switcher will only allow one subwoofer to play at a time. It will “switch” from one to the other but not both at once. A splitter will allow you to connect and play more than one at once.This monster splitter should work.http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=rca+splitter&cid=13504841509383046859&ei=JcMGTOCfLozswQX4vtG4BQ&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#pBut before you add a second subwoofer, I would like to make a suggestion. Either be sure to get the same type of subwoofer as a mate, or just replace the Sony sub with a bigger one and get rid of the Sony. Here is why.You will want the subwoofers to have the same crossover frequencies. Also, you will want them to have the same, or at least very similar frequency respoces and capabilities to prevent from having a convoluted and possibly muddy sound.
there is a blue wire you connect off the back of the head unit to amp called remote , it allows the amp to not have power while radio is not in use . You power the amp straight from the battery with a sufficient thickness red wire . Put an inline fuse on this wire to protect your investment . Then your ground wire is securely fastened to vehicles chassis . I always use a huck bolt for that or rivot , bolt and nut will work but stay away from a screw as it can rattle itself loose causing arcing . now that the amp is wired for power now you have to get infomation from radio to amp. This is usually done through amp preouts located on back of head unit . Hook up an rca wire to white and red on back of radio and then plug the other into white and red on amp. That tells the amp when to fire the magnets on the sub and when not too. If your radio has no preouts and can go buy a connector that taps into the rear speakers wires and then the other end accepts the rca wire. Worst case scenario and get help from a knowledgeable guy . and happy listening !!!!!!!!!!!!
good choice. get the baselink 2(newest model) and if u can order it on crutchfield. i believe they have a deal going with a free upgrade and u get the 4channel upgrade. it gives u 4channels that run 35watts rms u can run ur speakers on if u have aftermarket speakers
Yes it will. Plus Infinity is a great brand. You won’t be “knockin down doors” with bass but you’ll definitely notice a difference.
It doesn’t. Anechoic chambers are used to test speakers so that there is no interference from the testing room’s acoustic signature. That way, they don’t get false peaks and dips in frequency response as they would in the real world. One can also measure in 1/2 space; that is as good or better than an Anechoic chamber.
It makes sense to upgrade ONLY when it is an UPGRADE. Changing one mediocre component for the other will not make any difference. If you want to improve the base in your system – get a BETTER sub. Good subs are pretty expensive – $300 and up for a half decent one form HSU.Using two subs? How about 2 centers or 4 fronts?If you just want more BOOM – put your sub in a corner, and you will get more BOOM. Not more base – just more BOOM.
No problem. Though a dedicated amp for the sub would be ideal you can still include that sub in your system. If your main speakers are small and the sub has a speaker level out to the mains you can hook up that way. If your main speakers are large you will not want to do this as the sub will no doubt have a crossover before sending the signal to the mains. Thus, you would not be getting the most out of your mains. That Denon receiver has a speakers “B” output as well. You can run speakers “A” to the mains and speakers “B” to the sub. Either way you will need to set your main speakers to “large” in the receiver’s menu and you will need to run a test tone afterward to make sure all channels are at the same volume to you at the sweet spot where you sit.
Just about every receiver has a pre out port for connecting a sub woofer that has it’s owner power amplifier. I do not know any receiver that has a power amplifier for the sub woofer output. Some home theater in box have a sub woofer that is powered by the unit, it is a system with a dvd or blu ray disc player. If you are trying to connect a sub woofer to this, I recommend you read the owners manual of the system. Hope this will help you out.
This is easy to fix.By running some speaker cable from the left and right Speaker outputs to the push terminals on the subwoofer. Then going into the setup menu of your receiver. Set the speaker setting of the front speaker to Large. Then set the Subwoofer setting to None.The subwoofer will now extract the low frequencys from the left and right front speaker output.
without knowing specific modal can’t be sure. but most are externally controlled by the amp. although some were made with a fixed low pass with a 100Hz roll-off.
You don’t want to send the lows to your JRX115s if you’re using a subwoofer, or two subwoofers. It causes cancellation problems which makes your bass sound quieter. You want the lows going to your sub, or subs & the highs going to your JRX115 speakers.I posted your question here.http://www.djforums.com/showthread.php?p=1070444#post1070444post1070444″He can use a crossover or get a 5.1 soundcard, which has a crossover built in.”- Bill Fitzmaurice http://billfitzmaurice.com