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Can you make your high end audio speaker cables longer by twisting two pairs together?
I'm moving my speaker to a new location Audio Speaker and it seems the lenght of cable is just a little short. I was considering buying a few more feet and just twisting the cables together. Is this okay? If I do do this is there a best way to go about it or should I just buy a whole new cable length?
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Call the company that ran the wire. They would be the only people who would know where they left the open wires to access the speakers. Possibly in a closet, or coming up through the floor. But only the people that did the job would know.
Bi-ampable means you can use separate amplifiers for the low and high frequencies going to the speaker system. It brings the internal connections for the woofer and tweeter out to the back of the cabinet where you could split them if you wanted to. To do this, you not only need another channel of amplification, you need an external crossover circuit as well.The concept is that low bass frequencies need a big amplifier and the high treble frequencies do not – so, you give them separate amplifiers, just in case the bass momentarily demands so much of the amplifier’s power that it would affect its high frequency response. This is already being done by having a 5.1 surround system (the “.1″ being the sub-woofer channel).While I can see a possible slight benefit of bi-amping for the main left and right channels, this is way, way beyond overkill for the center channel, which generally carries only dialog (so it won’t even have any low bass)!
Check in your playback device setup. If the speaker is set for 6 channel audio, you’re expected to have a 6 channel speaker system connected. Set it to different settings until you hear all the sound.
tape will be fine… just strip the wires down enough that you can twist the two ends together then tape them. or you can get cable crimps from the hardware store where you put each end of the wire into a connector then crimp it down to hold them tight. In most cases if it does mess with the quality it all it will be the highend frequencys that you are uncapable of hearing anyways IF it affects it at all. But it should be fine. I install all my car stereos and do my home wiring with crimps and twist and tape
depends on how many watts the speakers run on and if they are 4 ohm or 8 ohm, most home amps do 2ohm, 4ohm, 8ohm, and 16ohm i believeanyway i found one that im buying for a rockford fosgate 15″ im buying for my room and hey if it can push one of those then its good believe me, heres the linkhttp://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PT-1600-Watt-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00079P6X0/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=musical-instruments&qid=1220143115&sr=8-2basically all you gotta do is go to amazon or google and search in shopping for thispower amp
Yes, it’s quite a bit different. Home speakers are made for closed boxes meaning they are enclosed in a box to get more dynamic sound whereas car speakers are made for more of a free air environment. Also another thing is most home speakers run at an 8ohm resistance while most car speakers are 4 or 2ohm. I’m guessing you are asking this because you want to put home speakers in your car or car speakers in your house, yes it can be done but it won’t sound quite the way it was intended.
If your budget is around $100, the Logitech X-540 will give you the biggest bang for your buck.140 watts in 5.1 channels.
Basically there would be a minimum requirement as far as how much power is required to push a speaker based on it’s rating. It’s like paring a car audio amp with subwoofers. If your speakers can sustain 1000w rms than you want an amp that can push as close to true 1000w rms as possible to get the most out of the speakers. Now most power sources don’t actually push a constant RMS, so 60w power input in your case probably equates to pushing the loudspeakers as close to the 35w rms as possible. For example going back to the car audio example. Most of the time when you see an amplifier and it claims to be 1000w it’s usually only operating between 500-600w rms. There are only a few that say they are 1000w and truly push at 1000w rms, i.e. J/L audio. J/L used to be the ONLY one and now there may be many more, but at last count there were few enough to count on one hand.
It’s not really a fact of the best. Around my town we have alot of custom cars, custom interior, custom systems. A guy I know had like a 78 caprice. He drove by and I was like damn he got a system. He didn’t have a system he had 4 Infinity Reference 6×9’s in a box in the rear deck. It was some crazy bass. Alot of people put down Infinity Reference, but when I heard them it put them up for me.
Most audio systems have 3 ranges:subwoofer: 20- 150 HzLow pass and High Pass
Just about anywhere that sells electronics. Some stores, such as Best Buy let you play some music on speakers they have there before you buy them.Most portable speakers plug into the headphone jack on your mp3 player, so you won’t even need an adapter.
If I’m picturing this correctly, it sounds as though that there are no speaker wire connections on the sub amp. That is not unusual with most of today’s sub amps _ it was never a good way to connect subwoofers. I’d connect the left and right RCA audio outs going from the receiver to the sub amps left and right RCA ins. Or, you could also try Y- connecting those left and right RCA outs to the LFE direct and see what happens. The bookshelf speakers should be connected to your receiver via the left and right speaker connectors {usually spring clips or binding posts}.