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How can I make a point-to-point phone system through XLR?
How can I make a point to point phone communications system that runs through XLR cable? I have access to power outlets on both ends, and I have XLR to plug into the system. I need Foot Xlr the phones to ring quietly (or silently), so a ringer light would be ideal. I also have to make it work on a budget or under $50. With the XLR, I can wire it to use all 3 conductors, but I would prefer to only use two, since the third is a coaxial around the outside of the other two. The phones will be approximately 130 feet away from each other, but the XLR snake that I am using is silver. Does anyone know how I can build (or buy) a system to fit my needs?
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Hi. I would bet that your friend’s mike is noise canceling. These mikes take signals from the back and remove them. You may need to put a block of foam on yours in back of the mike to minimize noise pickup. Or record in a sound damped room. (Or get a $10 computer mike!) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise-canceling_microphone
You don’t say what you want to record. Are you like a one man band or something? The BR-900CD records 2 track at a time max, so more than two mics to start with would be a wast. Start recording with what you have to start with, when you need more than two mics (so you can adjust the levels on different instruments), with two mics, at least you can have a singer, an instrument (or rest of group), and adjust the levels of the two. You can lay down each musician separately (using overdub), and adjust the levels afterwards (common now-days). I’m more used to jam-band type situation, where members like to play together, then you will need a mixer, then you can live mix your stuff on your Boss (the ability to mix 8 tracks at the same time for later mix down is expensive)
The easiest thing I’ve come up with is a guitar volume pedal, and two XLR to unbalanced cords. The pedal makes for silent killing of the mic…as well as a lame ass but effective way to control the volume w/o running back to the board.
Assuming that your intelligent lights are 3 pin instead of 5 (as well as the controller) then i would go ahead and use mic cables. Also, with that short of a run and only using two fixtures I would really be surprised if you need a terminator on the last one. Just be sure to test if before you show up to the gig.We have a mixture of 3 and 5 pin connections, we use adapters and bring everything to 3 pin so that we can use mic cables for everything, including using one of the sends of our audio snake. This way we can have our lighting control in the crowd with our audio.
The benefit of getting the interface is that you’ll be able to go straight into your computer with usually far less noise than if you went in through your sound card or stock computer mic in and line in jacks.Unless you’ve got a *really* good sound card, the line in and mic in jacks on your computer aren’t made very well. They’re noisy, and will limit the usable quality you’ll get from your setup. Honestly, it might not be that important in the short run, but over time you’ll realize how much noise is there (especially if you mix at all) and you’ll wonder how to fix it.Interfaces, by and large, have better signal-to-noise rations than sound cards, mostly because that’s what they’re made for, that and only that.With an interface, unfortunately, you don’t get a lot of the functionality of the mixer…. no routing or EQ or other such controls that you get real used to messing with. Interfaces are also a heck of a lot simpler – it’s plug and go. The key with interfaces is getting to know your host application, ie, your software, and how to use it to do what you want digitally, and knowing how loud you can push your mic before it starts clipping. You don’t want clipping.You’ll also need some headphones… you don’t want to monitor yourself with computer speakers, you risk feeding back. Get some studio quality headphones if you can – that’s the best for this kind’ve thing, you hear a flat response. You can monitor with normal headphones, but what you hear won’t be what’s actually recorded – normal headphones are EQ’d to make them sound louder, bassier, etc. That messed with the frequency curve and when you play your music back on another device, like a CD player, you’ll end up very surprised…. I mean, a normal headphone is okay for now, if you’re strapped for cash, but understand what I mean for when you do have the money, okay?Oh yeah… are you sure you need 15′? If you’re in a small room it could be too much. I’ve been there, that’s all.Good luck!EDIT: Yeah, I agree that the Art stuff isn’t very good as far as preamps, but see if you can find reviews first. I’m using a Lexington Alpha, recording with Reaper, and I’m incredibly happy with the results. Previous experience recording with M-Audio 2496, and the Lex has better noise figures than it did.Saul
What do you mean by a ’short’ ? I have to ask because so many people mis-use words, especially words they don’t really understand.Describe to me what your symptoms are and I may be able to help. I’m not going to monitor this post but you can contact me through the private message system.
Greetings,That is quite a bit of stuff for such a small amount of cash. Bravo!There are two negatives to your list though. First, the software you are purchasing leaves you entirely incompatible with most other studios. It may not be important now but you may find that you’ve written and recorded something that someone else wants to use or remix but you are not in a format most people would recognize. Second, there is nothing worse than buying something and then buying a better version a year later because you’ve outgrown it. Always seemed like a big waste of money. So, I would skip the MXL 3000 and go for a standard dynamic like a SM57 or a Beta 57. Those are both in your pricerange and you will never need to replace them. I have microphones that cost more than $5000 but I still use my SM57 for vocals, guitars and snare drums. That MXL might be a Condenser Microphone but I’d rather have a microphone that people are used to hearing (the 57 is used for vocals all the time) than a Cheap Condenser. I’ve heard those things and I’d rather record through a straw than use one of those things.Why not spend a bit more and get the Sony 7506 headphones which are standard in every studio in the world. At least you can reference other CD’s to your work on the same headphones that are just standard everywhere. It appears that you are not budgeting 20K for monitoring but only budgeting $20 will make ya crazy fast and you’ll be replacing those headphones fast. Might as well buy the right ones right away.Finally, I would consider Reason over FL Pro because FL is a toy about one step up from Guitar Hero. Of course, I’m very opinionated about it. Maybe Protools LE or Sonar as your mixing program.Good Luck,
I’m not familiar with shotgun mics, but you can browse here and read the reviews. They also have other types besides shotgun style too http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Shotgun/ci/8533/N/4291081663
Running a $200 mic into a $30 sound card is like put rims on a dump truck. It looks cool, but it’s a waste of money.I would definitely invest in a good preamp, and then go into your sound card’s line in connection. I’m liking Presonus these days in the $200 to $400 range. If that’s too much money, ART makes a fairly decent unit for $80.Also, how much voltage is your phantom supply actually putting out? For optimal operation, the phantom voltage should be 40 to 48 volts. I’ve seen a lot of units that only put out 15V. The mic will work, but won’t be great. Your preamp should ideally put out 48V!Greetings from Austin, TXKen
the easiest way to make a point to point intercom is to wire the phones in series. Make a loop. In the old days, a 1.5v battery with screw terminal would be used. 3 or 4 batteriies in series.You need a battery, 6 volt is fine, 12v is fine too. A couple amps will last a while. Two phones will draw about 40ma.Wire the phones so that Tip is connected to Ring from T1 to T2 and then Ring on T1 goes to the positive side of the battery and the negative goes to Tip on T2.The XLR is 3 wire. The phone will take two wires. This leave one wire to control the phones. A “button and buzzer” will make a nice signalling system. You can use the run without the battery and a piezo buzzer, a push switch to the powered side, would cause the phone to get the other ends attention.