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Connecting a Microphone to Sing?
I bought an atlas boom arm & standI bought those adaptors for the end of the boom armI bought a microphone and a 20 foot cable Feet Xlr it has XLR connection on one end, which connects to tyhe microphone, and 1/4 instrument connection on the other, which is hanging free right now.What do i need to connect it to my piano amp - I want to play & sing at the same time .. eventually be able to record it and transfer it to my computer for uploading.
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You don’t say what you want to record. Are you like a one man band or something? The BR-900CD records 2 track at a time max, so more than two mics to start with would be a wast. Start recording with what you have to start with, when you need more than two mics (so you can adjust the levels on different instruments), with two mics, at least you can have a singer, an instrument (or rest of group), and adjust the levels of the two. You can lay down each musician separately (using overdub), and adjust the levels afterwards (common now-days). I’m more used to jam-band type situation, where members like to play together, then you will need a mixer, then you can live mix your stuff on your Boss (the ability to mix 8 tracks at the same time for later mix down is expensive)
The easiest thing I’ve come up with is a guitar volume pedal, and two XLR to unbalanced cords. The pedal makes for silent killing of the mic…as well as a lame ass but effective way to control the volume w/o running back to the board.
Running a $200 mic into a $30 sound card is like put rims on a dump truck. It looks cool, but it’s a waste of money.I would definitely invest in a good preamp, and then go into your sound card’s line in connection. I’m liking Presonus these days in the $200 to $400 range. If that’s too much money, ART makes a fairly decent unit for $80.Also, how much voltage is your phantom supply actually putting out? For optimal operation, the phantom voltage should be 40 to 48 volts. I’ve seen a lot of units that only put out 15V. The mic will work, but won’t be great. Your preamp should ideally put out 48V!Greetings from Austin, TXKen
Hi. I would bet that your friend’s mike is noise canceling. These mikes take signals from the back and remove them. You may need to put a block of foam on yours in back of the mike to minimize noise pickup. Or record in a sound damped room. (Or get a $10 computer mike!) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noise-canceling_microphone
Greetings,That is quite a bit of stuff for such a small amount of cash. Bravo!There are two negatives to your list though. First, the software you are purchasing leaves you entirely incompatible with most other studios. It may not be important now but you may find that you’ve written and recorded something that someone else wants to use or remix but you are not in a format most people would recognize. Second, there is nothing worse than buying something and then buying a better version a year later because you’ve outgrown it. Always seemed like a big waste of money. So, I would skip the MXL 3000 and go for a standard dynamic like a SM57 or a Beta 57. Those are both in your pricerange and you will never need to replace them. I have microphones that cost more than $5000 but I still use my SM57 for vocals, guitars and snare drums. That MXL might be a Condenser Microphone but I’d rather have a microphone that people are used to hearing (the 57 is used for vocals all the time) than a Cheap Condenser. I’ve heard those things and I’d rather record through a straw than use one of those things.Why not spend a bit more and get the Sony 7506 headphones which are standard in every studio in the world. At least you can reference other CD’s to your work on the same headphones that are just standard everywhere. It appears that you are not budgeting 20K for monitoring but only budgeting $20 will make ya crazy fast and you’ll be replacing those headphones fast. Might as well buy the right ones right away.Finally, I would consider Reason over FL Pro because FL is a toy about one step up from Guitar Hero. Of course, I’m very opinionated about it. Maybe Protools LE or Sonar as your mixing program.Good Luck,
Well, it seems as though you pretty much know what you’re doing, however, I would not use an mini-to-XLR or XLR-XLR cable to extend a mini-stereo mic to a camera with a mini-stereo jack. All you need is a 1/8″ mini-stereo male to female cable. The XLR cable is only for extending XLR mics OR if you want to upgrade a mini-stereo input to allow XLR mics, but that’s not the best way to do it either. To cut all the confusing crap, I don’t think it would be of any benefit to get an XLR cable anyways. They are more expensive, and it would not give you better audio. The mini to mini cables are much more practical, and cheaper too
I have this one for my Rode VideoMic and Sony VX2100:http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/392841-REG/Rode_VC1_Stereo_Mini_Male_to.htmlbut it will work on any mini-stereo micThe only problem with mini-stereo mics, however, like the ATR-55 is that you can only extend it about 10 feet. After that your audio quality suffers, while XLR mics can go much much further. But I don’t think getting an XLR cable for a mini-stereo mic would help either. That would be pretty complicated too…Well, I hope that helps, (and I hope it wasn’t too confusing). So, good luck!!!
What do you mean by a ’short’ ? I have to ask because so many people mis-use words, especially words they don’t really understand.Describe to me what your symptoms are and I may be able to help. I’m not going to monitor this post but you can contact me through the private message system.
the easiest way to make a point to point intercom is to wire the phones in series. Make a loop. In the old days, a 1.5v battery with screw terminal would be used. 3 or 4 batteriies in series.You need a battery, 6 volt is fine, 12v is fine too. A couple amps will last a while. Two phones will draw about 40ma.Wire the phones so that Tip is connected to Ring from T1 to T2 and then Ring on T1 goes to the positive side of the battery and the negative goes to Tip on T2.The XLR is 3 wire. The phone will take two wires. This leave one wire to control the phones. A “button and buzzer” will make a nice signalling system. You can use the run without the battery and a piezo buzzer, a push switch to the powered side, would cause the phone to get the other ends attention.
Well…Your first option runs the risk of the extension cable turning into an antenna and picking up all sorts of interference. But you did not tell us what the recording environment is – whether there are lights, stage lights, or any other equipment around that might emit Radio Frequency or Electro-Magnetic Interference (RFI and EMI).Your second option has the weight of the XLR connector and shielded cable causing stress on the 1/8″ (3.5mm) plug going into the camera – and if that breaks in the camera, you have WAY bigger (and more expensive repair) issues.So… you can’t afford the XLR adapter – but don’t want to compromise audio quality… and in addition to all the advantages the XLR adapter provides, it also can give manual audio control that the Z18 does not have.I don’t have enough information to know which of the two bad options you are letting us choose from is less bad.
Assuming that your intelligent lights are 3 pin instead of 5 (as well as the controller) then i would go ahead and use mic cables. Also, with that short of a run and only using two fixtures I would really be surprised if you need a terminator on the last one. Just be sure to test if before you show up to the gig.We have a mixture of 3 and 5 pin connections, we use adapters and bring everything to 3 pin so that we can use mic cables for everything, including using one of the sends of our audio snake. This way we can have our lighting control in the crowd with our audio.