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Would a 50 watt 4 ohm amplifier be enough to power a 50 watt 8 ohm rated PA horn?
I am looking Watt Amplifier for a car amplifier to use with my 50 Watt RMS 8 ohm PA horn. All I am able to find are 50 W 4 ohm amps. Would it be a problem to get one of those? Do I have any other options? Thanks.
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That 1800 watts is peak. What are the RMS ratings? What model is it? Pyle makes very low end stuff. The RMS power is probably around 200×1@4-ohms and 350×1@2-ohms. I looked on their site and that is what I found for their 1900 watt mono amp. POS I wouldn’t have for free.
you do not need a 1500w amp for a 1500w subwoofer. 1500w sub means 1500w is the maximum power the sub can handle. i recomend getting an amp with a little less power than the sub can handle. it’ll sound better and not blow as easily. 1500w is alot, i have 760 going to my two 1200w subs and it sounds perfect.
GUITAR AMPSIt can vary a lot. an average combo amp can run you 100 bucks (used) all the way up to 700 to 800+ (brand new). they generally aren’t designed for microphone input, though, because the mic signal will not necessarily be the same impedance/strength as the guitar signal, which will mean that one will be coming out louder than the other, or one distorted, or other potential problems etc etc. but if you can find a used combo amp at a barter shop and it’s not too much of an investment, then I’d say sure go for it.STEREO AMPSsometimes you can find these with built in inputs, and in this case, the signal strength will not be as much of an issue, because there will usually be an input level control for each seperate input…the only thing here is that you also need speakers :S and I’ve found that these type of amps are less and less common these days, because people are getting tiny mixers and plugging everything into their computer. (that’s another option you might consider).IDEAL SETUPusually, although you probly already know this, the way it’s done is you have a guitar amp for your guitar, and then a PA system for your vocals etc. this is really expensive though, and you should weigh all your options before you shell out 1000 dollars on gear.sorry for the answer being so long…but I hope it was helpful
It depends on how you’re planning to use it…If you aren’t going to play in a full band (eg. only guitar & vocals or you have a pre-recorded background music), then it’ll be fine…if there aren’t very much noise in the crowd (audience)…or else you’ll have to amplify the sound with a mic near the speaker of your amp…If you’ll be playing in a band, but will only be playing mellow songs such that you’ll only be using clean tone and the other instruments wouldn’t be that loud, it’ll be okay…but there will be a problem if either the room is very big and you have a lot of audience or the crowd is making a lot of noise…But, if you’ll be playing rock, metal, or other forms of louder music, then you might not be heard by the audience…you wouldn’t even want to turn up your volume if ever you’re going to use distortion because there’ll be a lot of feedback regardless of the guitar or amp you use…you may not even hear your own playing…
To be honest, the best thing you can do is continue to use the cabinet for it, because it’s designed to play through a cabinetI assume that your marshall is a combo amp, otherwise plugging an amp head into another amp head would be ridiculousAnyway, I wouldn’t plug your amp head into your marshall combo amp (assuming it is one)mainly because the combo amp is designed to work on its own, and the speakers aren’t designed to handle 120 watts of input
go for the taylor big baby acoustic… you should hone your talent more to the max and it’ll give you more edge to prep in having your much awaited line 6 spider III…. wow, you just rock!!!! way to go !!! kudos to you!
Not at all, only problem is you might not be able to fit the wire into the connectors without crimp connectors. And it might be difficult to find a crimp connector that fits 4 gauge with a small enough spade tip. You could absolutely trim some of the strands at the connection so that it fits.Does JL 300/2 mean 150 watts per channel or 600 watts total power? 300/12 = 25 amps which 10 gauge is sufficient. You can buy #10 thhn by the foot at home depot (It’s normally 200 dollars for a 500 foot roll at my supplier, so home depot probably divides that and then increases to 250 to 300% by the foot. So worst case you’d be looking at 1.10 per foot, but it’s more likely 70 cents. You probably need 10 or 12 feet (battery positive to amp and ground from amp to body) So 12 dollars for the supply wire. Then at 300 watts to one bridged speaker, you would need more number 10 (and I forgot to mention, get stranded, not solid wire, low voltage has a drop from wire resistance, stranded is better for this) So in that case just make it 15 feet, and remember the shorter your speaker hook up the better. If it’s two 150 watt subs, then you only need #14 wire for those, which is significantly cheaper. If the RMS wire didn’t come with the amp, you only need #18 and an inline fuse holder for a 1 amp fuse. Then you need a 30 amp fuse and holder to go at the battery on the positive wire. Total cost of materials should be around 20-25 dollars if you get it yourself. Most 4 gauge amp kits are 80 to 120 dollars. I can’t imagine you getting this good of a deal… And by the way, the best place to get cheap fuse holders for car installs is a private auto sound supply shop. I payed 1.60 for a clear one with set screw connectors for my 50 amp setup. But yeah, to actually answer your question, yes larger wire is not a problem. You can use it. If you’re amp is 600 watts, then you need a 50 amp fuse and number 8 minimum.Edit: to the second answerer. A fuse is not a resistive limiter. The lead fuse is primarily for protecting against a short if the wire gets damaged and touches the body of the car. But also to prevent the wire from catching fire from too much current being pulled through it. The fuse that comes with the 4 gauge kit is fine for this situation. The amplifier fuse is probably easier to come by. And will protect the amp just fine on it’s own.
Sure, pumping 2000 watts into a speaker that’s only rated to take a max of 1200 watts is not problem. The pyrotechnic display will absolutely amaze and astound your audience. Not to mention the people paying you when they evacuate everyone out of the place.Seriously, are you talking a single-channel amp? If it’s a 2-channel or stereo amp, then it’s rated for 1000 watts per channel or 2000 watts total. But if you try pumping all 2000 watts into a 1200 watt speaker, you won’t hear anything noticeable except the silence coming from it. That’s it. No bang. No flash. Just silence. Except for your crying over flushing a few hundred bucks down the toilet.
2000w pyle amp is probably no more then 500-600rms at the lowest ohms the amp is stable at. your charging system is fine since 500-600rms on music is only about 30-40 amps of current needed by your electrical system. (01 honda civics have 70 amp alt) and unless your subs cant handle 500rms between the both of them you have nothing to worry about. hope it helps
For a 200w amp you will need an adapter able to give at least 12V/20A this means 250W and it will be BIG!!!!!
You would need a 150 amp 12 volt DC supply to run that rig.
I would go with two 12” Cerwin Vega stroker 124’s(4000w/2000w rms)I have 2 of them with a d2400 Directed amp in a 94′ explorer and they poop on any sub that tries to go against them I’ve gone against the best JL w7,pioneer premier(which really blow ass),kicker comp.Valvanhagn.Crushed them ALL!they SLAM lows like 15’s and also hit violent highs.long story short,the Vega’s are hands down the best and clearest I’ve owned or heard.but I’m always takin on competitors so if u know someone….lol!! -JoshDon’t listen to this dooshbag below me(Luis A.).he obviuslly doesn’t know the meaning of good quality.1st my amps rms rating is 1300w,that means 650 “true” watts to each speaker.And what the f*** does he mean “sencitivity level is ONLY 84d” 1st, its 86d and 2nd, 80d is enough to make u go def.(its a warning in the owner manual).I NEVER EVER EVER EVER, hear distortion or “popping” out of these speakers even in REAL deep excursions.and they still make people “tap out”….with only 650w true watts to each speaker they are really somthing els. 2nd,650w out of a class “D” Directed amp is like 850w out of a say,alpine,JL audio,store boughts,est.ur amp is a good quality and would almost match mine.just short a couple hundered watts.and u kinda want to under power the subs NEVER over power them,but seriuslly if u heard this combo I don’t need any more watts out of the amp.It will shut my truck down lol.this guy signs “car audio technicion” he sounds like a b.s.er I know plenty of technitions that wouldn’t dare say anything bad about these speakers.he just sounds like a hater.lol -Josh
it will sound just fine as long as you have the right size box. and go ahead and turn that gain knob up. Don’t forget to buy the right wiring it’s just as important.
Well , a dedicated “Headphone out” jack on a guitar amp is just THAT , it’s dedicated to providing the signal level to use with a set of headphones. It has little to do with quality of the headphones , wear and tear , etc. , it’s a signal designed for headphone use. Now, speaking of “levels” in general , it isn’t practical to overdo the volume on anything considering headphones , Amp , stereo , etc. As a postive , the better the quality the headphones you have , the better sound you are going to have, and the more fun you’ll have playing . hope this helps.
Is it one of the Vypyr modeling amps? If you can give us a little more information as to the model, you might get more help.Good luck.Greetings from Austin, TXKen
Absolutely. Your sub can handle 600 watts RMS, so you are safe, and its enough power to make it sound decent.
theres nothing wrong with that.. my home stereo system is about there too !
I say Kinetik
Humming is usually from pickups, or a bad cord. Could be dirt in the pots [potentiometers] too. Pots can be cleaned, but new ones are not that expensive. The pedal might reduce the noise, but something is causing it, that needs to be addressed anyway.A good tech at a guitar shop can tell you what it is.