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What is a stereo power amplifier?
i am looking online for stereo receivers and i keep coming across these stereo power amplifier and i have no Power Amplifier idea waht they are.what are they?they have some outrageous numbers like 1200 watts and i dont know what that is suppose to meanwhat does it mean they amplify audio?like does it have a connection that i could plug my laptop into or something into and get music to play through the speakers?
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i have a mono 900 watt rms amp powering two subwoofers. it has two outputs even tho it is a mono amp, that parallels the two 4 ohm subs to 2 ohms. it splits the power to 450 watts rms to each subwoofer.
The maximum power output from a cigarette lighter socket is 120W/10A. You would need to run 10AWG or higher wire to run the amp. Proper fusing is also best. So to answer the question is yes its possible but its definitely not recommended due to ratings set by most manufacturers.
never get a cap…always upgrade your electrical system in this order:1. the big 32. a good battery (optima or kinetik)3. HO alt (if needed)4. add more batteries (if still needed)if you notice serious car audio competitors will never use a cap. they use racks of batteries for a reason. besides, for what you spend on a cap, you can easily spend it on upgrading properly. a cap will supply only short bursts of power to your amps. batteries and a good alt. will provide a constant supply to your entire car. also, a cap is useless unless you upgrade your big 3, a good battery and alt. anyways….adding an electrical component to an already struggling electrical system will only make matters worse. if you want to do some research, you can do a search here: http://www.caraudio.com/forum.
/ I hate when he answers questions without doing any research! If he’d've looked, he could’ve seen all the specs he needs!Anyway Yes, that amp will push 2 of those quad 2ohm, 2250watt RMS subs. You can actually wire them in parallel(all 4 coils on each sub)/series for a 1ohm load for max power output. The amp will put out about 2300watts RMS @ 1ohm.At least let him know about the electrical system of his car not being able to support this monster amp! At least!!Have Fun!
if you have a car battery and a battery charger inside. might want to look and see if they make a converter from 110 to 12v
should work pretty good. those subs r single 4ohm, so two of em would be a two ohm load giving each sub 200watts,the perfect amp would be the alpine mrp-m500 v-power amp, it would put out 250watts a sub
The power wire for a subwoofer amp really needs to be connected to the battery. There’s no voltage source inside the vehicle with enough current capacity for your needs.Don’t worry about running a live power wire through the vehicle; it’s perfectly safe as long as you use a correctly sized fuse at the battery. If I recall correctly, the easiest way to route the wire from the engine compartment into the cabin is a large rubber grommet, high on the firewall above the gas pedal. After that, just run the wire under the edge of the carpeting (keep it clear of areas where passengers’ feet will be resting) back to the amp mounting location.
A battery with 80AH should run it for at least 8 hours. It depends on what volume you run it at really. The most accurate way to tell is to hook it up and put an ammeter on it at the desired volume you are going to run it at. Then just divide the amp hours of your battery by what the amplifier was pulling. Hope this helps.
Brian… sheesh… relax… but I do totally agree, this service needs a FAQ. The same questions get asked, day in and day out. Over and over and over… Alright… The basics… quick and dirty…Amplifiers have a nominal impedance load for a given power output rating. If say for instance, the amp is rated at 8 ohms to 250 RMS Watts… it might be 375 RMS Watts at 4 Ohms, and if it can do 2 Ohms stable, then likely around 565 RMS Watts.So… first you need to figure out what your amplifier is cabable of sustaining for an Ohm load. And this is assuming it’s solid-state, and not tube. That’s a whole other story. Anyways…You have 8 speakers they’re all the same Ohm rating.And you want to run them at 4 Ohms…So you’ll have to understand the basics of Series/Parallel math…Wired in series… you add… wired in parallel, you need to use the 1/(1/a+1/b+1/c+1/…) formula, where a,b,c,… are the respective Ohm ratings of all the drives you want to use…If you 8 drivers are 8 Ohms… and you want a 4 Ohm load impedance…All wired series in the rows… and then rows are wired parallelRow 1 – 2 drivers… 8+8=16ohmsRow 2 – 2 drivers… 8+8=16ohmsRow 3 – 2 drivers… 8+8=16ohmsRow 4 – 2 drivers… 8+8=16ohmsoverall load impedance of the system would then be 1/(1/16+1/16+1/16+1/16)=4 Ohms… So with the amplifier example above you’re driving 375 RMS Watts of power through those 8 speakers.Let’s say you you have 4 drivers and they’re 16 Ohms each, and you need a 4 Ohm load impedance…Wire all the drivers parallel to each other…1/(1/16+1/16+1/16+1/16)= 4 Ohms…Let’s say with the above we needed 16 Ohms…Row 1 – 2 drivers – 16+16=32ohmsRow 1 – 2 drivers – 16+16=32ohms1/(1/32+1/32)=16 Ohms…Let’s complicate things a little bit…You have 2 drivers that are 8 Ohms, 2 drivers that are 4 Ohms, and 2 drivers that are 6 Ohms… what are the possible combinations of load impedance?Row 1 – 2 8 ohm drivers – 8+8=16ohmsRow 2 – 2 4 ohm drivers – 4+4=8ohmsRow 3 – 2 6 ohm drivers – 6+6=12ohms1/(1/16+1/8+1/12) = 3.7 OhmsWhich is close to a 4 ohm load…Mixing things up a little…Row 1 – 1 4 Ohm, 1 8 ohm, 1 6 Ohm = 18 OhmsRow 2 – 1 4 Ohm, 1 6 Ohm = 10 OhmsRow 3 – 1 8 Ohm = 8 OhmsRow 4 – 1 6 Ohm = 6 Ohms1/(1/18+1/10+1/8+1/6)= 1.37 Ohms… we just cooked out amplifier…Try again…Row 1 – 1 8 ohm, 1 6 ohm = 16 OhmsRow 2 – 1 4 ohm, 1 6 ohm = 10 OhmsRow 3 – 1 4 ohm, 1 8 ohm = 12 OhmsRow 4 – 1 6 ohm = 6 ohms1/(1/16+1/10+1/12+1/6)= 2.42 Ohms… the amp if can accept a 2 ohm load, is now putting out around 500 RMS Watt…This presents a whole slew of other issues…Mismatching drivers is generally a bad thing. You need to make sure that the RE (DC Resistance of the voice coil) on all the drivers is the same, or you’re going to have drivers doing more work than others. This is mess. Won’t function well, and you’ll end up trying to figure out why your system sounds like crap…Unless the speakers are all the same… don’t bother. Otherwise the above should help. When you want to figure out how to wire series and parallel, google it. There’s a billion pages on the internet about it.
Yes – A power amp is a power amp. You will need passive speakers to work with that amp.
I would run at or lower than RMS on the subs. I know an amp that will work well. The RD 85.2 bridged at 4 ohm is right on for you. http://www.rdaudio.netIf you want more help, email me.lowhz01@yahoo.com Do you have a Mach 1?
Buried in behind the radio I believe. Has some stupid reset button on it and had to get to it once years back on our 99.
120 to 12v. converters can be expensive and usually not worth it, anyway 30 amps to 60 should be fine but the converter will likely run out of power before the subs reach their limits.ac to dc converters can run hundreds for what you want, 150.00 is likely the cheapest you will find.
the power amp is what takes the very low voltage from the pre-amp to drive the speakers.so, yea, if you want to use speakers, you need a power amp.
Isn’t that obvious? There is no change in power input between no signal and full output. If power is being dissipated in the speakers it is not being dissipated in the valve. Less power lower temperature.
Perfectly safe. Its an overkill. You just wont get the most sound of the speaker if its rated much higher than the amp.