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How can i run an amp power wire?
Im debaiting on weather to run my power wire to my battery or to the fuse box under the Power Amp hood if that is possible. Id rather go to the fuse box but am not sure if a short circuit could exist or damage the amp somehow. Also any tips as to where in the firewall i cant find anywhere to run my power wire its a 98 3000gt thanks.
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you can do that or u can tap into a different wire depending on where u r putting the neon you can use the wires from the headlights just try to put a toggle switch on because in most or all states its illegal to have neon on while driving
it could be that you’re overloading your amp, depends on how you have your subs wired. don’t change the fuse to a higher one, or you’ll risk damaging your amp. 40 is the most you should go with that amp
check the quality of the battery, the alternator, etc… if that checks out fine consider leaving the vehicle running when the audio system is on. next line of defense could be a farad cap (which stores battery power until the bass hits hard) or I belive it’s called a battery buddy that will cut off power to the amp(s) when the battery has just enough power to start the engine. Hope it helps:-)
You will have to obtain a regulated DC Power Supply capable of delivering enough continuous current for however much the amplifier draws. Look at the fuses that comes in the amp if you don’t have the actual specifications to go by. If it has just one 35-amp fuse, make sure the power supply is rated at least 35-amps continuous. If it has two 35-amp fuses, that’s 70 amps, etc.These can be quite expensive. Another alternative is to get a deep-cycle marine battery and charge it up, then use it until it’s low. You usually can’t leave a battery charger on it while it’s working because chargers aren’t filtered well and you will get a lot of hum.
2.5W. The LM380 is still available. Check the attached web site. Enter LM380 in the “Pricing and Availability” box and click “Find”.Why do you want a substitute?
Hello there,You need the amp.Later,
Your alternator still has to power that second battery
peel the carpet back by the pedals and look for a rubber boot through the firewall. run the power cord through there
If you look hard enough for car audio supplies, they actually make special grommets to do just what you’re trying to do. It will be a little harder to use that silocone but it’s worth it quality wise, and it looks better too. Siliocone will work, but it’s also likely to fail in a little while. I would call it more of a temporary fix. Here are a few places just for starters:http://www.avtoybox.com/car-stereo—video-mobile-installation-firewall-grommets.htmlhttp://www.wildwestelectronics.net/mpc-p400-cg-10-4.html
I would really recommend that you get a more powerful amp for those speakers. That amp puts out 100 watts per channel at 8 ohms. Those speakers should have at least a 400 watt per channel amp. You always want to get an amp that is at least the program rating of your speakers. Remember that underpowering your speakers is more dangerous than overpowering them because an underpowered amp will distort sooner and distortion is what damages speakers.http://www.sixstardj.com/geex70stpoam.htmlHere is a good amp that is powerful enough for your speakers:http://www.sixstardj.com/beeuep1.html
It should be pretty easy…you will use rca cables to connect the “pre out” or “tape out” from the receiver to the line inputs on the amp. The speakers would just wire to the two speaker outputs on the amp.Remember that your receiver’s tape output is not controlled by your volume control so it will be at full volume. You will need to control the volume with the amps volume controls if it has them.
If I had to use a power acoustik amp, I would use this one. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14639_Power+Acoustik+BAMF-2000-1D.html It’s 1000 watts RMS at 1 ohm. Just wire the subs and coils together in parallel for a 1 ohm final load. But, I think that this would do a better job. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7369_PowerBass+ASA-1000.1D.html
You don’t want to run an amp to the ignition. The amps main power wire + needs to go directly to the battery with a fuse within 12″ of the battery and then ran all the way to where the amp will be mounted. Leave the fuse out until everything is complete. The ground wire needs to be as short as possible and grounded to something such as a seat bolt or anything with a good solid metal mount. Make sure to sand the ground down to bare metal before bolting it down. Use the remote wire on the back of the stereo for the 12 volt power on source which is usually all blue or blue with a white line on the wire.
Depends on the amplifier. There are specific amps designed for specific speakers. Class A, B, A/B, T, and digital D amplifiers are designed for full range speakers (tweeters through subs), class D amplifiers are only for subs, as they only produce low frequencies. You generally need one channel on the amplifier, for every speaker in your system, with the exception of subs, which can sometimes be run 2 or 3 to a channel.