I cannot tell you how happy I am with my Rack Amp. Man, this thing is getting better and better as I learn more about it.
power amp and pre amp? or just power amp?
in a rack-mount, do i need to run a power amp and a pre amp, or can i just use Rack Amp a power amp? i am selling my guitar head and switching to all rack-mount processors. and i need to know if i need a power amp and a pre amp to run the setup or just a power amp to run it. the cab im running is a peavey valve king 4X12
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Sure, pumping 2000 watts into a speaker that’s only rated to take a max of 1200 watts is not problem. The pyrotechnic display will absolutely amaze and astound your audience. Not to mention the people paying you when they evacuate everyone out of the place.Seriously, are you talking a single-channel amp? If it’s a 2-channel or stereo amp, then it’s rated for 1000 watts per channel or 2000 watts total. But if you try pumping all 2000 watts into a 1200 watt speaker, you won’t hear anything noticeable except the silence coming from it. That’s it. No bang. No flash. Just silence. Except for your crying over flushing a few hundred bucks down the toilet.
The Master Out of your Mixer connects to the Inputof the Equalizer. The Output of the Equalizer connectsto the Input of the Crossover. The Output of theCrossover will connect to both amplifiers, respectively.Read and understand all of the Owner’s Manuals onall of the equipment you wish to use, to get the mostout of your system. Some Pro Audio equipment willillustrate examples of recommended connections, intheir manuals. Be sure to use the same properlygrounded outlet for all of your Equipment. This will helpprotect your Equipment, and reduce any unwanted hum.
They could be used for a stack. Basically a power amp is what takes the signal from the preamp and gives it some balls. A preamp by itself is pretty useless but is what shapes the sound basically. A stack head is pretty much both combined (preamp and power amp) andif you get a power amp youll need to purchase a preamp.
You can use it directly inline, like a stompbox. If your amp has an effects loop. you can run it from the loop out to the effect in, and vice versa. Basically, not any different, just located after the preamp stage in the amplifier. Try it both places, and see which you prefer.
Dude, you have a great-sounding amp….the tones on those little boogies are outstanding. I guess the only thing that you could add would be a noise gate…you can set it as strict or loose as you want…it will give you that nice break when you’re not playing, and big punch when you come back in, and it will eliminate any buzz. It depends how much you want to spend, but I would go with a racked noise gate. But really, any kind of gate will give you a more “finished” sound. This amp has a beautiful clean, with plenty of spank…and a wonderful lush distorition. A little compression will help, but keep in mind, that “contoured distortion” channel on those amps is already very controlled and slightly compressed. Maybe if you fooled around with some mic’s and experimented with mic’ing far away or right upclose…that may help with recording. Good Luck.
search ebay.com for rack mount server.
Yes but you will have to use either right or left channel unless the amp has a mono switch or input.I see in the manual it says they are a mono output:”12. Line InputsRCA-style jacks receive the audio signal from standardline-level audio sources. When used in a two-channel stereosystem, both the left and right audio inputs should beconnected and are internally summed to a mono output.”And you did not put up the whole sentence:”When using both outputs the combined load must have a minimum of 4 ohms impedance!”So NO!! you cant put one to each channel. your best bet to keep from blowing the amp is wire the sub in 8 ohm and use one channel.
4 ohm amp, 2 x 8 ohm speakers??Read up on the section regarding ohms and you will know what to do..http://www.legendarytones.com/ohms.html
I would get the amp. Then you can have 2 guitars playing
No – you cannot connect speakers to a preamp. A preamp only amplifies the guitar signal up to “line level” which is a level similar to what comes out of a cd player.An amp head actually has a preamp and a power amp. The power amp amplifies the signal up to “speaker level” which is high enough to handle speakers.You can get the preamp if you feel you need it. The preamp output would then connect to the head input. The simplest set up would be to just get a head.
There’s a lot that goes into doing it right. You’ll need a good linear actuator, various switches, and something to control it. A PLC (programmable logic controller) and alarm system with open outputs are the best choices. You’ll also need some really good wiring and math skills. You’ll need to figure out the actual presented load on your axis and use that to find an actuator that fits the load requirements. For lighter loads you can use power antenna motors will work. They have all the stops and switches built in, usually. But, they can really only handle about a five to ten pound load. You can get all of the supplies that you need from Ebay, McMaster-Carr or Grainger. These are about the cheapest places to get the supplies you’ll need. Keep in mind that there is no real way to do this job easily or cheaply. It requires a lot of planning and a substantial budget.
If the amp uses DC power, that’s all you need.If the amp uses AC power, you will need an inverter as well.Look also into bike “dynamos”. Generate power while you pedal. Not much, but maybe good enough to power a small amp.
Hello! An “amp head” is the part of an amplifier that takes the guitar input and electronically amplifies it in preparation for sending it to the speaker(s). The electronics include a “pre-amp” and a “power-amp” section, sequentially processing the incoming guitar signal to produce a suitable tone and level for the speaker. The speaker then receives the signal, and produces the amplified sound. The amplifier head may be a separate enclosure from the speaker “cabinet” (see http://www.guitarcenter.com/Marshall-1959SLPX-and-1960TV-Half-Stack-482751-i1322992.gc ), or built into a single unit like a typical combo-amp (see http://www.guitarcenter.com/Fender-Vintage-Reissue–65-Twin-Reverb-Guitar-Amp-100128187-i1145362.gc ). A rack is short for “equipment rack” (see http://www.guitarcenter.com/Road-Ready-RR12UADSW-12U-Deluxe-Shock-Mount-Amplifier-Rack-Case-102669074-i1171461.gc ), the form-factor in which many of the higher-end guitar electronics will be supplied. This would include amplifiers, effects, and power supplies. This allows a guitar player to have one cohesive unit that contains the amplifier head, the more-expansive special effects (than pedals), and a conditioned power supply all in one box! As far as the Line 6 Pod, it is a love it/hate it relationship! Check Harmony Central at http://reviews.harmony-central.com/reviews/Effects/product/Line+6/POD/10/1 for user reviews of the unit. Hope some of this helps clarify things a little. Best regards, Dana
Yes, many parts are interchangeable. Alternators are usually bigger on cars with more accessories. More juice is always good. The fenders, doors windshield, and rack and pinion battery cables would probably fit just fine. Car makers try to use the same parts on many cars to save costs. The struts are probably the same if you use the springs from your V8 car. Heavier engines require heavier springs. Fan clutch is probably only for the smaller engine and may have a different temperature setting. If you use it monitor your engines temperature and if your engine gets hot, replace it with the right one.
not enuff infoquestion is incompletewhat do you have, and what are you trying to do?If you have a rack mounted “power” amp, AND a preamp, that is “probably all you need”, to drive the speakers.Not sure tho, since we don’t know just what you have.If you have a rack mounted “preamp”, yes you will need a power amp, of some kind.
It stops the equipment from getting damaged in transit or while setting up.
I’m glad you recognize that what sounds good live doesn’t necessarily sound good recorded – this is the beginning of wisdom!First off – bass = mud. Everything below 200-400 hz is going to be rolled off anyways, so it doesn’t conflict with the drums and bass (the exact frequency will depend on the material and the mixing engineer). By reducing your bass you not only increase the clarity of your sound, but you reduce the amount of mud you add into the mix with your raw sound.Second – gain = fuzz. Our ears are a lot more forgiving of fuzz than a microphone. You want to have less gain and less distortion on your guitar than you would live – mic’s pick up distortion at a lower level than our ears. This also increases clarity – sometimes its good to actually hear the notes one plays instead of a wall of noise, no?Third – volume. Guitar amps always sound better when they’re turned up, but you can’t usually do that in a recording studio. Be prepared to turn down.My practical recommendations are as follows – come prepared with two different amp settings – normal practice volume and a “recording volume” of half that. EQ and gain changes with volume, ie, what sounds good loud doesn’t sound right quiet, and vice versa. Tailor your EQ settings to sound the way you like at your normal practice volume, then get your amp to sound as close as possible to that at half-volume. Take notes! Use amp distortion if possible – it will sound better then the pedals you’ve mentioned.Okay, so now you’ve got your amp to sound the way you like it, both at normal playing volume and at half volume. Now to each setting cut the bass and gain by about 30%, add 20-40% to your mids, if they’re less than 50%, and kill any reverb. Voila – this is the recording sound. Yes, it sounds different, yes, it sounds kinda weak, but it will sound a hell of a lot better mixed than you might think.Yes, boost your mids. You’re a metal player, I’m betting you’re scooping them. You can’t do that for recording, and you can’t do that live, if you don’t want to be absolutely buried in the mix. They don’t need to be all the way up, but they need to be there at least a little. Again – volume and clarity.No reverb. The engineer will add it if necessary. Actually, i’ve gotten away with adding just a leeeetle bit of ‘verb – between 0.5 and 1 on a scale of 1 to 10. I think it adds some dimension, but it really depends on the quality of your reverb. If it doesn’t sound really good, don’t add it, cuz the studio’s reverb is better than yours.Something that really helps for clarity (have you noticed that I’m big on clarity?) is lowering the bass side of your pickups a little. Since bass frequencies can hog headroom, this means that you can have more sonic punch and snap vs fartiness. This also turns your bass control on your amp into more of a “warmth” control rather than a “fart” or “mud” control.I would just pick one guitar to play in the studio. Make sure it’s good to go (setup, intonated, fresh strings, doesn’t buzz or hum) and bring a spare set of strings. If you don’t use a product like GHS Fastfret, check it out – I love the stuff. Helps extend string life, too. I mean, bring the other guitar for backup, but plan your tone and whatnot around playing one guitar. Keep it simple!Make sure your pickups aren’t too high on the guitar to get a clean tone. Lowering them a little gives you a smoother, rounder sound, raising them makes them a little rougher. Try to find a happy place with them, and try to make both of your guitars the same volume, so you don’t have to screw with anything if you need to swap guitars.Oh yeah – and know your parts. Every flubbed take costs money, after all.Good luck.Saul