When Distribution Amp arrived, I opened the package and was impressed with the solid packaging which insured Distribution Amp didn’t arrive damaged in any way, shape, or form.
Overall, my experience was amazing. I hope this helps you make a solid buying decision.
Do I need to use all the ports of a distribution block?
I have 4 gauge wire Distribution Amp running from the battery to my sub amp, I want to add an amp to my door speakers, the amp that I want requires an 8 guage wire, what should I do?
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if you run 0 gauge to the block you still need to run 2 gauge to the ampuse 12 gauge speaker wire
You don’t usually connect 3 #12 to a 100A. breaker, unless you’re just using the breaker as a main switch.Those #12s only provide 20A. in current capacity.The ’source breaker MUST be only 20A. 2 pole to protect the wire.If there’s only a couple of lights and a receptacle and little load drawn for the whole barn, you might get away with it.Connect the black and red wires to the input poles of the main breaker in your load center panel.Connect the white to the neutral buss.The ground should be bonded to the panel enclosure and to a ground rod for the barn.
APC has a nice design wizard, that lets you specify number of servers, racks, etc., the amperage draw, and the layout. Then they recommend models of their UPS.Regulations will depend on your local building code and electrical code. 1200 amp 3 phase is a lot of power. 1200 amp 2 phase is 60 circuit breakers.Anyhow, good luck.RadyAirhttp://www.ironoakit.com
Having a distribution block does nothing for bridging the amplifier. All it does is distribute the power for multiple amps. It depends on the input of the amplifier. Some amps will be able to input 0 gauge wire and some only as big as 10 gauge wire. 8 gauge wire should be fine to hook up the amp. 6 gauge or 4 gauge will provide more amperage to your amplifier if you are able to connect it to the amp. I hope this helps.
They will work equally as well. The d-block method would be the neater way IMO, but performance wise, as long as the wires are adequate size there’s no advantage one way or the other.
compare prices. remember you are going to need a 0 gauge fuse holder at the battery. sometimes the wire and the fuse holder cost as much as the whole kit.
3 x 40 = 120120 + 30 = 150150 amps if you run them both on one wire.However, I would be concerned about running these both off a single 4-gauge.
cause youll drain your battery wear down your alternator and eventually need to replace both thats why they make performance alternators and batterys specifically for custom systems
You would be better off running a dedicated line for your other amp. Or, you can run a 4 gauge line to the distribution block, then branch out with 8 gauge from there. Make sure your grounds to the amps are as short as possible and of the same gauge as the positive wire. And make sure the power line is fused or has a circuit breaker within 12 inches of the battery.
4 gauge is good up to 20 ft from the battery with that watt range, your good! 4g in, and 2 – 4g out fold your 8 gauge wire back on itsself to fit in the 4 gauge hole.
How big of wire does your sub-amp require? If bigger than 4g, you’ll need a bigger wire ran to the back to support everything.Answer, no. Just make sure the ‘empty’ ones aren’t too close to bare metal (ground) or your car will catch on fire unless properly fused (which most people don’t).Bigger is always better, for wiring. If you plan on more upgrades (don’t we all?!) then you need to go ahead and upgrade this ASAP.Or, you can just run a dedicated 8g from the batt. to under the front seat where you can have the door-speaker-amp. This way you don’t need a distro-block or much more wiring.Good Luck!
If your stereo doesn’t have 2 sets of RCA’s the easiest way to do it would be to get 2 Y-Adapters. With 1-male to 2-female outs. Then plug in your 2 sets of RCA wires for both amplifiers. If you don’t want to go that route you can get a preamp or crossover which both have 1 set of audio inputs and 2-4 sets of outputs. I hope this helps.
Either one will work fine – go for it.
Have a pro do it. There is WAY too much to explain that can be put on here.Go here for starters so you know some terminology:http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.comHere’s a diagram of my system:http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/sparky3489/Hook-up.jpg____________How to install a cap:It has to be charged just before you supply power to it.It’s best to install it as close to the amp as possible. You may need to get addition power and ground wire the same size you have now. Otherwise, cut the ground and power wire leaving enough room to mount it. The overall length of the ground wire should as short as possible (18″ or less if possible, not critical). Remove the fuse at the battery. If you don’t have one, you need one that is rated the same as the total fuses that are on the amp. It must be no more than 18″ from the battery.Connect the ground from the chassis to the cap then to the amp.Connect the the power wire (from fuse by the battery) to the cap then to the amp. To charge the cap, get a 12v light bulb with leads. Temporarily connect the power wire from the battery to one side of the bulb (at the fuse) and connect the other side of the bulb to the wire going to the cap. The bulb will light and over a period of time (10-20 seconds) it will get dimmer. When the bulb goes out, the cap is charged. Basically, your going to put the light bulb where the fuse was.Now you can re-install the fuse._______________________IMPORTANT: Make/print a sign/note that states:”WARNING: This vehicle employs a large electrolytic capacitor for the electrical/audio system. The capacitor holds a charge EVEN when disconnected. When changing the battery, remove this fuse. Take caution and charge the capacitor prior to replacing this fuse. SEVERE INJURY OR DAMAGE MAY RESULT IN FAILURE TO COMPLY!”Have a big red arrow pointing to the fuse and one of those yellow triangles with the exclamation point in the center. Laminate this sign and place it near the fuse by the battery.Something like this:http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/sparky3489/CapWarning.jpg___________
12 gauge?? try more around 4-6 gauge. i use 12 gauge for my speaker wire
The way I ran mine was 0ga to the block 4ga out to the amp. My block also is 8ga out so i used a wire reducer ( http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1547193/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046 ) coming out the block so I could have 4 ga coming out to the amp.
Sure – http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/sparky3489/New%20Box%20-%20VU%20meter/100_3786.jpg_______________________________If your total system power is 1200 watts RMS or more, you will need to:1. Upgrade the “Big 3″ – that is to replace (or add to [recommended]) the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis.2. Upgrade to a yellow top battery3. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternatorFailure to do this will result in the early death of the alternator as it will eventually fail.Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you need http://www.box.net/shared/uchv4dbk88You will need Microsoft Excel. If you don’t have Excel, you can download (free) OpenOffice by Java (Sun Micro systems) from here to read spreadsheets (and you thought spreadsheets were for business) – http://download.openoffice.org/index.htmlA second battery is never a good idea as it’s an added strain on the alternator to charge two batteries AND supply power for the car. The ONLY time a second battery is useful is if the audio system is to be used with the car off.A capacitor is only good so far as the audio system isn’t trying to pull too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn’t provide more power, it’s designed to ’stiffen’ the voltage to the amp, nothing else. If the current isn’t there, a cap won’t help.The alternator must have at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and sound system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically the same requirements for an amp to be efficient. ________________________________The thing is, people get confused in the real purpose of a cap. A cap is not used to, cure or prevent dimming lights, change the way the system sounds or save the battery/alternator (all are misconceptions).To undertsand the purpose you need to understand how they work.A cap does it’s best to keep the voltage at a certain level, but if the voltage changes so will the cap voltage. The cap just makes the change smoother. The diming light syndrome is caused by a sudden current drop due to lack of current supply. The voltage simply follows what the current does. A cap cannot help this situation nor can it provide more power. A cap only gives what it gets.A cap is perfect for a noisy voltage line. This is why caps are used in AC to DC power supplies as they are used to smooth out the DC ripple for a more smooth DC output.The ONLY cure for dimming lights is a more hefty amperage source, the alternator.The REAL powerplant of the car is the alternator. The ONLY purpose of the battery is to start the car and run the accessories with the engine off, nothing else.Running two batteries isn’t the answer either. The problem with running two batteries with a low amp alternator is the battteries will degrade in performance a lot quicker over time than if you had the proper alternator. Plus, runing two batteries is an added strain on the alternator to charge two batteries AND supply power for the car. The ONLY time a second battery is useful is if the audio system is to be used with the car off.
Not really. The only reason that you would need one with one amp is if you had to step down the wire size. Say .. from 4 gauge to 8 gauge.