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Is this a good deal for a desktop?
Item Description Part # Qty Tax Unit Price Total1 A301 - Custom Workstation CDS.A301-DG31PRIncluded ItemsIntel Desktop Board DG41TYMotherboard - micro ATX - iG41 - LGA775 Socket - UDMA100, Serial ATA-300 -Gigabit Ethernet - video - HD Audio (6-channel)BOXDG41TY 1 YesCompudata - A301 Case - Black & Silver CDS.A301 1 YesElectrical Safety Authority - Inspection (Required By Law) ESA 1 YesPSU: ACE 400 Watt Professional Power SupplyCompudata - ACE 400 Watt Professional Power Supply ACE400 1 YesCPU: Intel Core2Duo E7400 - 2.8GHz/1066FSB/3MB L2Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 / 2.8 GHz processor1 x Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 / 2.8 GHz ( 1066 MHz ) - LGA775 Socket - L2 3 MB -BoxBX80571E7400 1 YesRAM: Kingston 4GB Dual Channel Kit / 800MHz Watt Professional DDR2Kingston ValueRAM memoryMemory - 4 GB ( 2 x 2 GB ) - DIMM 240-pin - DDR2 - 800 MHz / PC2-6400 - CL6- 1.8 V - unbuffered - non-ECCKVR800D2N6K2/4G 1 YesHard Disk Drive: 1x 500GB HDD (7200RPM/SATAII)Seagate Barracuda 7200.12Hard drive - 500 GB - internal - 3.5" - SATA-300 - 7200 rpm - buffer: 16 MBST3500418AS 1 YesOptical Drive: LG SuperMulti DVDRWLG GH22LS30 Super MultiDisk drive - DVD±RW (±R DL) / DVD-RAM - 22x/22x/12x - Serial ATA - internal -5.25" - black - LightScribeGH22LS30 1 YesVideo Card: Intel GMAX4500 w/VGA & DVI-D outputsKeyboard & Mouse: MS Optical Wheel Mouse & Logitech KeyboardMicrosoft Basic Optical Mouse BlackMouse - optical - 3 button(s) - wired - USB - blackP58-00020 1 YesLogitech Deluxe 250Keyboard - USB - black - OEM967738-0403 1 YesSpeakers: No Speakers Currently IncludedOS: MS Windows XP Pro 32Bit (Vista Downgrade)Microsoft - Microsoft Windows Vista BusinessDowngrade to XP Professional Available - Please specify in order notes.VISTABUS 1 YesLCD: LG W2242TQ 22" WS LCD DisplayLG W2242TQ-BFLCD display - TFT - 22" - widescreen - 1680 x 1050 - 300 cd/m2 - 8000:1(dynamic) - 2 ms - 0.282 mm - DVI-D, VGAW2242TQ-BF 1 YesUPS: No UPS Currently Included (Free Powerbar)Office Suite: No Office Suite Currently Included w/ ConfigurationWarranty: 3 Year Complete Hardware WarrantySecurity Software: AVG Free (Non Commercial use)Configuration Subtotal 1CAD$1,044.00CAD$1,044.00Subtotal: CAD $1,044.00GST (5.000%): CAD $52.20PST (8.000%): CAD $83.52Shipping: CAD $0.00Total: CAD $1,179.72
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honestly you should be fine with the alpine amp at 4 ohms. just make sure you check your gains. and if you were to run 2 subs off the alpine amp at 2 ohms, that would be fine too. you may not notice a whole lot of loudness but there should be more SQ.
Don’t try to run it off an inverter. Get a car amp instead… it’ll be more efficient, and probably work out cheaper.But, if you insist on buying that no-name amp and trying to use it in-car, somewhere between 600 and 1200 watts should be enough.
if yo want something new go with ultimate but professional is losing the game
well to remove the sub an amp, all it requires is tracing the wires and removing them. Disconnect the power wire from the battery before you start though.Remove all wires from the amp and the sub and remove from vehicle, then pull out the head unit (CD player) and disconnect the RCA’s from the back and the remote wire, probably either yellow or blue or yellow/black. Then just start to uncover the wires and pull them up as needed.
Since no one else answered your question, I will.Both umbrellas and softboxes are used to soften light, but they give slightly different effects. Softboxes give flatter light and can, if you use a single large one (3×4 feet or so) be used for portraits to simulate the look of soft windowlight. Softboxes are used for that kind of portraiture, but are mainly used for product photography because they give nice looking highlight reflections of shiny objects.Umbrellas are mainly used for portraits, and they give a little more contrast and deminsionality to the face than with softboxes. They are not so good for still life and product photos because the shape of the umbrella will reflect in shiny parts of the product or object you photograph.Softboxes are used for strobes, because continuous light sources get very hot inside the softbox and can be a fire hazard, although there are special heat-resistant softboxes made for hotlights.Umbrellas can be used for either strobes or hot continuous lights.I am mostly experienced with strobes. I’d get 500ws strobes. They’re powerful enough for almost anything (certainly enough for any kind of portrait from individuals to small groups) but not horridly expensive like more powerful units like 750 or 1000ws strobes. Expect to pay about $500 each, and you’ll need 2 minimum for portraits, and 3 or 4 is better if you want to do a background light in addition to the main and fill lights.I wouldn’t use photofloods or hotlights for portraits, they both get very hot and quickly make people sweat while you photograph them. The unfortunate thing about photography is that ‘limited budget’ just doesn’t work. It is a VERY expensive hobby and an even more expensive profession. It is not uncommon for an ordinary portrait studio to own $30,000 or more worth of equipment: strobes, softboxes and umbrellas, light stands, background stands, backgrounds, props, posing stools, reflectors, etc. Commercial photographers (for product photography, architecture, etc) need even more than that.
Whoever told you that you need a “home amp” as opposed to a “pro amp” does not know what they are talking about. An amp is an amp…period. Pro amps have different connectors and usually a cooling fan. Pro amps are much more cost effective and they are not marketed with the BS that home amps are. Pros don’t fall for all the marketing BS.I would send the Niles back.If you are not happy with the bass with that powerful 400 watt per channel amp and those speakers (and a powered sub) you really should consider an equalizer. Every pro audio setup includes some type of equalizer. Home stereo weenies don’t like them but they are ignorant. An equalizer can remove frequencies while emphasizing others. When used properly, an equalizer can have a dramatic effect on the sound. All you need is an inexpensive stereo equalizer. A good audio engineer always lowers certain frequencies first to solve any problem – avoid raising any frequency.Experiment and have fun with it – there is no perfect setting. It really depends on what you like.Great equalizer:http://www.zzounds.com/item–BEHFBQ1502If that does not fix your bass problem, you may want to invest in some professional speakers:http://www.zzounds.com/item–MACSA1232These speakers will ROCK your house and will have plenty of bass. They have built in amplifiers.
fisrt off I suggest you take it to a professional to diagnose the problem.Does the horn work?If the horn work then you can try these few steps to check and repalce the bass woofer if you still want to do it yourself.Its gonna take alot of patience and time.1)first off you have to get the mesh off and unscrew the speaker(woofer)2) after you get the woofer out ,there will be a wire or 2 wires plugs, that plugs into the woofer terminals(+ and – ) pull that out from the woofer(mark down which one is positive and which ones negative).Now there should be nothing holding the woofer in the box.3)take the woofer out completely from the box and with both hands try to move the woofer cones up and down,it should move freely.4) Now its time to test the woofer ,you will need 2 pieces of wires and a stereo that you can hook the woofer on so you can test it (for example a small house or car amplifier,a stereo,a tape,anything that can play a speaker)So lets suggest you have a home stereo.5)what you gonna do is take the piece of wire and hook it up on the speaker terminals and hook the other end on the home stereo output or a amplifier output or whatever you have.You will have to make sure the speaker positive and negative matches the home stereo. You can either hook the wires on the left or right channnel of the stereo or amplifier or whatever you have.6)now be very careful not to bridge any of the wires or hook the wires up wrong.Once again make sure the positive and negative wire on the speaker is hooked up on the positive and negative output on either the left or right channel on the stereo.7) now turn the stereo on, put it on play,turn the volume up(not all the way)and listen to hear if any sound is coming out from the woofer.8) If there isn’t any then you have a blown woofer.If there is sound then your woofer not blown.9)If the speaker is blown then you will have to buy another 15″ woofer on ebay or any other electronic store to replace the woofer.10) if the speaker is not blown then you have a wiring problem in the woofer box.Well I know this is probaly alot of stuff to do,but its the easiest way to check a woofer.On the other hand if you know someone who have a digital tester ,they can be able to test the speaker.Just know that its alot of of risk and work trying to do something you don’t know about.try to see if you can take it to a professional.GOOD LUCK
I think that it is enough for a professional blow dryer.
That’s not an extremely powerful blow dryer…but, it depends on the thickness of your hair. If you have thin hair then that’s fine…but, if you have thicker hair it just means that it would take longer to dry your hair.
when it comes to car audio all you care about is the RMS (continuous) wattage not the peak/max wattage because they mean nothing at all and the reason i say this is because of the wattage numbers you listed (i don’t think anyone makes a 5000watt (RMS or peak/max) 2channel amp (kicker makes a mono-block 10000watt RMS amp)if you are having charging issues you need to look into upgrading your big3 (wires) and if that does not solve it you can upgrade the cars battery, if you are still having problem you will need a higher output alternator (or second alternator depending on the car if possible) and then you can add extra batteries but just adding a capacitor is a waste of time and money not to mention it will add more stress to the cars stock charging system and make your charging issues WORSE
sorry not a hair dresser. i’m using conair ionic hair dryer (not exactly sure what its called) and have found it to reduce the amount of static in my hair. also reduces heat dammage and makes it more managable. professional hair dryers maybe better quality, but mine works for me and i can’t afford professional grade right now.
Hi! LoL Yes it looks like one but I believe it is just a smaller one(for travel purposes maybe). I have heard a lot of great things about beautychoice and how it is so much cheaper. Bye
I like Dremel tools. (I’m an artist.) I recently purchased one and they sent it out ASAP. Here’s the link:http://www.dremel.com/en-us/tools/tool-detail.htm?H=188090&G=69667&I=69869If you they happen to be out of stock, email me. I haven’t used mine as yet.
Although some photographers use “hot lights” i.e. incandescent lights for pro photography, it is not common any more due to the heat and power draw. You can get daylight-balanced hot light bulbs although they are VERY hot and don’t last terribly long. And 250 Watts is about the max you can get, and you’ll need to use special fixtures to handle the heat. One thing you can do is to get the quartz halogen lights like from a hardware store. These are fairly inexpensive, and are properly housed to deal with the heat. We used these kind of lights at my office for a while to do product photography. But again, they get hot and don’t throw off as much light as you might want. If you do use lights like these, you’ll either want to set your digital camera white balance to “incandescent” or for film cameras, you’ll want to use tungsten-balanced film.A much better choice if you want continuous lighting is to look into daylight-balanced compact flourescent lights you can get from camera stores like B&H photo, Calumet and Adorama. But here, you’re starting to spend some money… and there is also still the issue that it’s not as much light as you might want, necessitating faster films or ISO settings, or slower shutter speeds (not good for portraits, etc.)So what almost all pro photographers do is to use strobes. There are some inexpensive strobe systems from Novatron and other companies that you can use to get started. But I would suggest if you are serious, to consider renting a system from a local pro rental place, and ask them for some setup pointers. I would also suggest getting a book on studio lighting to become familiar with the various lighting systems and techniques.
Here is a place to find LED flashlightshttp://www.led-flashlight-store.com/professional-use-led-flashlights.html
For the type of games you have mentioned then yeah it is decent and a good price, happy gaming
Spend some time learning here http://photo.net/learn/studio/primer . The more you know the less you will waste buying the wrong equipment.
I have to agree with the other post. You do need to use pure sine wave and use a little bit larger inverter. And forsure use larger cables for the DC connection. Hook to the battery not the lighter power point. The wires in the car are too small. You have gotten lucky if you have not melted your wiring yet.A friend of mine powers out door bands for green power using 4 deep cycle batteries and 400 watts in solar modules. He uses a Prosine 1000 inverter and a C-40 charge controller. So get a prosine and save your car wiring and the band’s Amps. here is a couple of links one for you to read up on types of inverters and sine waves and then a link to show you a good inverter to do the job.http://www.oynot.com/inverters.htmlhttp://store.oynot.com/statpower-prosine.html
Yikes! You know the old saying, “Where there’s smoke, there’s fire”. I certainly wouldn’t leave the room with it on, if I were you.