Buying Amplifier Amp was one of the best investments I ever made. I highly endorse it.
How do you find the CMRR of a single op-amp differential amplifier?
The differential amplifier circuit has 1 matched resistor pair and 1 mismatched resistor pair.
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the last guy pretty much covered it, but if your a true beginner at this, then ill explain a lil more….run your power cable from the positive part of your battery, through your car to your amp, you can hide the wires very easily under the paneling inside of the car. Then you ground your amp to part of your manifold, i would reccomend the seatbelt bolt. Then you want to run your RCAs and remote wire, and then plug in your speaker wires. 8 gauge should be fine for 1 rock 12, although if you upgrade to any more subs, i would reccomend moving to 4, 2, or even 0 gauge wire. most people put there amplifiers on the back of there back seats, assuming you have easy access to your back seat (most of them just pull down) then run your cables underneath the carpeting to clean it up a little bit and make it look nice. one key point about situating your sub which you probably already know is that when you put it in your trunk you want the actual sub facing the back of your car with the back of it as close to the back seat as possible… This way the bass is alot deeper, clearer, and more effective. Also i would reccomend getting grille covers for it and skrewing it in your trunk so it doesnt move around when you go around a turn.but to answer your question, if you werent on a budget, i would say go to circuit city and buy a high class wiring kit, but seeing how you are on a budget, i would reccomed simply going to walmart and buying a 1400 watt amp wiring kit…i think its like 25.00…it will do what you want, but its far from the best. I hope i answered all your questions, email me if you have any more, car audio is my one and only true obsession, and i always love helping other people. Good luck!banshee_370@yahoo.com
An amplifier, or power-amp, supplies the power that drives your loudspeakers.A pre-amp, or processor, does all the decoding of the incoming audio stream from the DVD/cable/sat/etc., adjusts volume, selects source, etc. AND sends it to the power-amp. Most newer pre-amps have built in equalizers and set-up programs that automatically adjust the level (volume) of each speaker, sets distances, etc.through a supplied microphone that you place in your seating position.An A/V receiver generally combines eveything into one piece of equipment.Pre-amps and power-amps are generally considered PREMIUM or HIGH-END and as such, they usually cost much more than a simple receiver. They’re also built to a higher standard. Some of the advantages are that with the amps seperated from the processing, there’s no electrical interference or “crosstalk” with the processor caused by the amp section. Another is that a power amp will generally have MUCH more power than a receiver. More power equals more “headroom” or reserves for musical or cinematic peaks while listening to music and watching movies. So yes, they are superior, but you really need at least some decent speakers to exploit the benefits.Some people pair a power amp with a receiver, using the receiver as a pre-amp to reap the benefits of the REAL power of a seperate amp. Most $500-800 receivers rated at 120watts by 7 channels only put out 60-70 watts when you’re actually using all 7 speakers. Here is an used Rotal power amp that would blow away any sub $1,000 receiver in clean, reserve filled power output :http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?ampsmult&1184642318
Not at all, only problem is you might not be able to fit the wire into the connectors without crimp connectors. And it might be difficult to find a crimp connector that fits 4 gauge with a small enough spade tip. You could absolutely trim some of the strands at the connection so that it fits.Does JL 300/2 mean 150 watts per channel or 600 watts total power? 300/12 = 25 amps which 10 gauge is sufficient. You can buy #10 thhn by the foot at home depot (It’s normally 200 dollars for a 500 foot roll at my supplier, so home depot probably divides that and then increases to 250 to 300% by the foot. So worst case you’d be looking at 1.10 per foot, but it’s more likely 70 cents. You probably need 10 or 12 feet (battery positive to amp and ground from amp to body) So 12 dollars for the supply wire. Then at 300 watts to one bridged speaker, you would need more number 10 (and I forgot to mention, get stranded, not solid wire, low voltage has a drop from wire resistance, stranded is better for this) So in that case just make it 15 feet, and remember the shorter your speaker hook up the better. If it’s two 150 watt subs, then you only need #14 wire for those, which is significantly cheaper. If the RMS wire didn’t come with the amp, you only need #18 and an inline fuse holder for a 1 amp fuse. Then you need a 30 amp fuse and holder to go at the battery on the positive wire. Total cost of materials should be around 20-25 dollars if you get it yourself. Most 4 gauge amp kits are 80 to 120 dollars. I can’t imagine you getting this good of a deal… And by the way, the best place to get cheap fuse holders for car installs is a private auto sound supply shop. I payed 1.60 for a clear one with set screw connectors for my 50 amp setup. But yeah, to actually answer your question, yes larger wire is not a problem. You can use it. If you’re amp is 600 watts, then you need a 50 amp fuse and number 8 minimum.Edit: to the second answerer. A fuse is not a resistive limiter. The lead fuse is primarily for protecting against a short if the wire gets damaged and touches the body of the car. But also to prevent the wire from catching fire from too much current being pulled through it. The fuse that comes with the 4 gauge kit is fine for this situation. The amplifier fuse is probably easier to come by. And will protect the amp just fine on it’s own.
Yes it canThe fuse is there to stop your amp drawing excess current and causing damage to its self. Excess current is usually caused by a short circuit in the system.So yes it can work, if you short across the fuse holder, but you will be removing the safety system and it could result in blowing up your amp.
the REM is a 12v wire so as long as you run 12 Volts to the amp it should turn on.
The instrumentation amplifier is similar in some ways but instead of having a very high gain, it has a defined gain that is programmed by the user. If it was set to Av = 1000 or more it may appear to work, but would be inaccurate. The open loop gain of an op amp is more like 1,000,000 but not defined.An instrumentation amplifier can be used in a different way. It measures the voltage across a resistor used to load the photo-diode. The resistor is chosen so that with full scale illumination of the photo diode there will be 10 or 20mV across it. WIth less load (resistor too high) the voltage will be higher, but the photo-diode output will be more compressed (non linear as the illumination increases). This may be useful too. The resistor and the + and – inputs of the amplifier are connected across the photo diode. There must be a path to common for the bias current of the inputs. Ideally have two equal resistors in series for the load, and connect the center point to common through another resistor from 10K to 1M. An instrumentation amplifier usually has a reference connection, connect this to common too. These are more expensive, but have some advantages in that a balanced differential input can be used without loading the signal source. Common mode voltages are suppressed, it only measures the difference between the two inputs. A cable of a few meters length becomes practical.The resistor. Measure the short circuit current of the photo diode with maximum or full scale illumination.Calculate the resistor from ohms law. Use this current and 10mV. Thus for 1mA the resistor is 0.01V / 0.001A = 10 ohms. Use 2 x 4.7 ohms in series to provide a center tap. Now set the gain of the amplifier to give full scale voltage with 10mV input. You get the formula for calculating the gain from the data sheet.
amp is short for amplifier
Vo = [(V+) - (V-)] * r2/r1http://www.ecircuitcenter.com/Circuits/opdif/opdif.htm
I would recommend using an electronic parts supplier warehouse because you can get a 2uF cap for $15 instead of paying the ridiculous amounts that “name brand” suppliers like Kenwood and MTX ask for. Those things can run over $100. And all they are is a sticker stuck on the same cap you can get direct.
No side effects ive been taking protein shakes for years on and off, only thing is you might feel a bit bloated from time to time
We need more information about help you choosing amplifier, if you going get 4 channel amplifier that mostly used for running your door and rear speakers, but if you going run two subwoofer then get two channel amplifier.
you can not hook up the speakers to the head unit and the amp at the same time, you will have problems.there might be a unit that allows you to plug in to it with the deck on on channel and the amp on another and you can use the unit to switch between the two but this would require extra speaker wiring.i would just say use the amp cause the amp will sound better, and other then using less power the decks power has no advantages.george u buy a clue, you missed the question and all so missed the fact that damage or bad sounds could happen if both the deck and amp are wired together.
There is no need for a 200 amp cable. most of the time 75 to 100 amps is more than enough. Just go to the local car audio store and pick up a amp kit. (Depending on amp size depends on price) The local Wal-Mart sales them as well. You’ll spend between $25-$100 for a good amp kit. Amp Kit1 power wire1 ground wire1 set of RCA for audio from sterio to amp1 fuse.
The amp head is only a power and processing part of an amp. In order to get any sound you need an instrument grade speaker cabinet to plug into your amp head. Those can cost quite a bit too.
Not advisable. If you bypassed the “cheap” amp as you put it, you would have more power, but your speakers would probably not be able to handle it safely.Anything that is around a bunch of kids who are drunk will probably be destroyed by drinks spilling, by people falling into it, you know what I mean. Furthermore, if you want to invite the cops to your drunken party, then the easiest way to get them there is to make a lot of noise. They love coming to parties like this!I would rethink the whole idea. Somebody might end up to be very sorry for this party!
Yes it’s most certainly possible with this cable here:http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102974It’s a male 1/8″ stereo plug to two male RCA plugs. The S50 has a built in volume control so it should work alright even without a stereo head unit.
You need a receiver with pre amp outs, so you can send the audio signals through rca wires into the amp you choose, then out to the speakers. Just to do not wire up the speaker wires on the stock harness.