This Amp Radio was exactly like they said it was. You won’t regret it. Amp Radio is awesome.
how do you hook up a remote wire for a amp to a stock radio?
i am keeping Amp Radio the stock radio for now. but i do not know which wire is the remote wire. is there a easier way to hook the remote wire for the amp.
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I guess it completes some sort of circit?
You will need to still purchase an amplifier installation kit. This will have your power, ground, remote turn-on wire, RCAs, and fuse holder. The line output converter will just give you a set of pre-outs so you can run RCA’s off of a factory radio.
Are you using RCA patch cables or are wired direct from the speaker outputs?
It is nothing unique , in fact it happens quite often , especially when you have a disconnected input cable or one that is damaged.The cable is acting as an antenna feeding the RF energy (radio frequency energy from the radio station) to the amplifier.There it is being demodulated and amplified.It is all acting as a un-tuned wide band radio receiver.You will likely find that you also live close to an AM broadcast band radio station, and it is this that you are picking up .http://www.swdxer.co.nr/
all you need is a line output converter. you can get one at walmart for like 20 bucks.
You answered your own question. You have the premium sound system in the car. IF you are adding the aftermarket amplifier you will have to bypass the factory amplifier. Because your getting an amplified signal from the premium sound system amp, going to the input on the aftermarket amp. They just don’t work that way.
You can use the output from the rear speakers as an input to a “line output converter” and use RCA cables from the LOC to your amp. Or, if the amp has high level inputs, you can simply connect the high-level inputs directly to the speaker wires. Using the LOC will provide better results. Here’s one that includes a remote to turn the amp on and off.http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18107_PAC+SNI-45T.htmlYou can use one of the cheaper products like WalMart sells and just connect the amp remote terminal to a switched 12V source in the car. But make sure it is switched or you’ll end up draining your battery with the amp on all of the time.
If I were doing this, I would connect a dummy load of 8-10 ohms (a resistor) across the speaker output of the radio, along with a shielded cable to the amp input. This resistor needs to be rated at about 10 watts or more. Just be sure the cable shield is connected to the ground terminal (the radio chassis). If you have a stereo setup, you just need to duplicate the operation for the other channel.The dummy load resistor takes the place of the speaker and provides a suitable low impedance for the output stage of the radio, and at the same time it allows you to connect a cable from the same output stage to the high impedance of the amp input without overloading it. Connecting the cable to the ratio just involves removing the plug from one end and separating the shield from the inner wire, then soldering these two things to the speaker output wires (with the proviso above about the ground).
You either have something hooked up wrong or are pulling far to much power for what your vehicle can handle. I’d assume that something is hooked up wrong. It sounds like you may have a power and a ground touching somewhere and it caused the fuses to blow. If I had to guess, it has something to do with your remote power wire for your amp.Double check fuses and what you added/changed. Chances are you’ll be able to trace the problem best that way.
try http://www.crutchfield.com, they have everything you need it …..
if the radio has RCA outputs on it you simply use those and if it does not you will need to buy a LOC “line output converter” that hooks up to existing speaker wires and gives you a set of RCA outputs but if the van has a factory installed amp you will run them from thereyou can run your remote power wire to the amp from the “switched” not constant power wire going to the radio or from a fuse in the fuse box that is only hot when the key is “on”always run your power wire and your remote/RCA cables on opposite sides of the car to avoid noise interferencethe rest is standard, here you go http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Learn/Article/Menu.aspx?g=120&tp=115
First, make sure the car runs good. there is nothing better than the sound of a cool car with a nice sound either from the speakers or the exhaust. but first things first, don’t spend all your money on aftermarket stuff like that. make sure the car is sound. make sure the tires are good, make sure nothing is going to break. it sucks when you spend 500 bucks on a stereo system and you can even drive it cause it needs some other part that cost 400. My advise is make sure you have a reliable car that will take you every where without breaking down.
look on youtube almost EVERYTHING(music-wise) is on youtube
If you have rear speakers in the rear shelf that you can access from your trunk, you won’t have to take your stock head unit out from your dash. You can use this converter:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAC-Trunk-LOC-Adj-2-Ch-Line-Output-Converter-SNI35-TR4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38636QQihZ007QQitemZ170151104362QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVWYou’ll tap into the +/- wires for both rear speakers, then use RCA cables to connect the converter to your amp. If you don’t have rear shelf speakers, you’d have to remove your stock head unit and tap into the +/- wires for both rear speakers from there.